ST. ANDREWS, Scotland — The ruins of St. Andrews’s once-majestic cathedral are a reminder that this grey city by the ocean was a pilgrimage website lengthy earlier than golf got here alongside.

However there isn’t a doubt about what attracts crowds now, and it has been seven years for the reason that golf pilgrims gathered right here for a British Open of their weatherproof gear and memento caps.

Seven years is an unusually lengthy hole, however the R&A, which runs the event, determined to delay returning the British Open to St. Andrews to make sure that it may host the a hundred and fiftieth version of what’s identified on this aspect of the pond because the Open Championship.

Initially scheduled for 2021, the St. Andrews celebration acquired pushed again a yr due to the pandemic-induced cancellation in 2020, and now the organizers may need to wonder if it was definitely worth the wait.

As an alternative of a possibility to revel within the historical past and hopefully windswept charms of the Outdated Course, the main focus has remained on the elephant within the locker room: LIV Golf, the Saudi-backed, economics-be-damned breakaway circuit that has poached PGA Tour expertise like the previous British Open champions Phil Mickelson and Louis Oosthuizen, and is led by one other former Open champion, Greg Norman, who for his sins and pains was not invited to this yr’s dinner of champions at St. Andrews.

Tiger Woods’s information convention on Tuesday was dominated by the topic (Woods held agency to his place towards the defectors, inspiring British tabloid headlines like “LIV and Let Die”).

On Wednesday, Martin Slumbers, the gray-haired chief govt of the R&A, tried unsuccessfully to handle the subject “briefly” by making a gap assertion at his information convention that made it clear that the R&A wouldn’t bar golfers from the insurgent tour however may change its qualifying necessities to make it harder for them to play in future British Opens.

Convey on the follow-up questions! “Do you assume golf needs to be welcoming cash from Saudi Arabia given after we find out about sportswashing?”

Evasive reply from Slumbers: “I feel that’s a too simplistic means of taking a look at it.”

The difficulty is just not blowing away anytime quickly within the Scottish breeze and will rapidly resume being the dominant plotline if a LIV golfer, like Dustin Johnson or Oosthuizen, rises to the highest of the 2 yellow scoreboards above the 18th inexperienced which might be nonetheless operated by hand on this in any other case digital age by college students from rival non-public colleges.

“Whoever wins on Sunday goes to have their title carved in historical past,” Slumbers stated. “And I’ll welcome them onto the 18th inexperienced.”

Later within the day, Slumbers stood on the balcony of the Royal and Historical Clubhouse overlooking probably the most celebrated expanse of open land in golf, together with that 18th inexperienced and the primary tee and the placing inexperienced the place Woods was honing his stroke from brief and lengthy vary amid intermittent showers.

The Scottish have a tolerance for rain larger than most, and most of the followers and officers pointing their cellphone cameras at Woods held their floor regardless of the drizzle.

However rain has been uncommon in these components of late, which may assist the Outdated Course defend itself towards the large hitters. The fairways are significantly agency, which implies potential bother off the tee as drives can bounce into the tough or past.

The gamers, for now, sound extra delighted than daunted. As advances in tools have threatened the Outdated Course’s relevance in latest a long time, the celebs clearly have combined emotions about tearing it to shreds.

“I don’t assume it will get any higher than profitable at St. Andrews,” stated Jon Rahm of Spain, who’s chasing his first Open victory. “No offense to some other event on the planet. It’s the oldest championship on the oldest course and the place it began, particularly once you get into the setup now we have this week: good and agency and rolling and tricked out as it may be.”

St. Andrews is broadly thought-about the house of golf as a result of the sport was performed right here as early because the fifteenth century and later set the development that made an 18-hole structure the usual. However for all its pedigree, it isn’t the house of the Open Championships, which started at Prestwick on Scotland’s west coast in 1860 and stayed there till coming to St. Andrews for the primary time in 1873.

The Open finally outgrew Prestwick, which final hosted the event in 1925, however although the Open rotates amongst a gaggle of Scottish and English programs, St. Andrews, regardless of its modern-day challenges, has hosted it greater than some other.

The champions right here by the years embrace Bobby Jones, Sam Snead, Peter Thomson, Jack Nicklaus, Severiano Ballesteros, Nick Faldo, John Daly and Woods in 2000 and 2005 when he was at his prelapsarian peak.

“When you’re going to be a participant that’s going to be remembered you need to win at St. Andrews,” Jack Nicklaus stated, in his final look in 2005.

That could be a seductive thought, however not fairly honest to memorable skills like Walter Hagen, Arnold Palmer, Gary Participant, Tom Watson and Mickelson, none of whom received at St. Andrews.

However the place has cachet, and the streets of the traditional city are crammed as soon as once more with guests, and for the primary time, there’s additionally a brief campsite on an area rugby discipline full of rows of tents and lots of of volunteers and followers who couldn’t afford the jacked-up charges at native resorts.

There are two classes within the tent metropolis: tenting and glamping. To advertise golf to the younger, campers underneath 24 are allowed to camp totally free.

“All of it looks like glamping to me,” stated Michael O’Farrell, 23, from Galway, Eire. “They even present the air mattress.”

Open tickets are offered out, and that features the official observe days, which began on Monday when the course was closed to most of the people after loads of mingling with the gamers within the previous days.

“It simply exceeds all expectations, and that even goes to Saturday when the locals are capable of stroll down the fairways with us,” stated Will Zalatoris, an American enjoying in his first British Open.

“You will have Augusta Nationwide,” he stated of the location of the Masters Event. “Which is clearly one of many premier, most non-public locations in actually the world. And you then come right here, and I’m strolling down fairways with 60 individuals and their canines. I feel that’s what makes golf so enjoyable. Clearly, this week is way more sort of the individuals’s event.”

Zalatoris, 25, paid a go to to the Dunvegan Lodge, the traditional St. Andrews watering gap a brief stroll from the 18th gap that has modified possession since 2015 however remains to be a magnet for followers (the toasts had been plentiful and the face masks scarce at its packed bar on Wednesday).

“The Open means the whole lot to this group, even should you’re in a roundabout way concerned,” stated Tom Willoughby, 72, the previous co-owner of the Dunvegan who was nonetheless holding court docket in entrance of the chalkboard the place he and his spouse Sheena have lengthy written a every day message, often in rhyme.

The most recent: “It’s Windy Wednesday, Oh, What Enjoyable. The Event not but begun. Come Thursday Morning Standing Tall. Teeing it up, no different however Paul.”

That might be Paul Lawrie, who stands because the final Scotsman to win the Open, profitable again in 1999 at Carnoustie, simply up the coast from St. Andrews. Lawrie was scheduled to hit the opening tee shot at 6:35 a.m. native time on Thursday.

Convey on the Outdated Course. Convey on the event.

“I’m by no means nice on the primary tee,” Lawrie stated. “It doesn’t matter what event I’m enjoying in, I’m all the time a wee bit nervous. However clearly it’ll be a bit bit extra as a result of it’s the Open, and it’s the a hundred and fiftieth. Fortunately, it’s a pleasant, huge, large fairway down there.”

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